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"Lynn and
Surroundings" by Clarence W. Hobbs
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Transcribed and submitted by Shaun
Cook | To help
transcribe or submit information, please e-mail
Shaun
Cook. |
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WHAT time the first white man set his foot upon
the soil of Lynn, or who he was, history revealeth not. Legends of a visit by Thorwald,
with a company of sturdy Norsemen, to Nahant in the eleventh century, as well
as tales of explorations in these
waters by the early English adventurers, Gosnold and Pring, are
preserved; but their foundation is obscure, if not
doubtful. It is reasonably certain, however,that in 1614 Capt. John Smith, having established his Virginia colony, sailed northward on a
voyageof exploration; and in his
excellent description of the coast, he mentions the Mattahunts as two islandsof great beauty, and gives such a
minute description of the bay and surroundings as to leave little doubt that he explored the beautiful peninsula,
but had mistaken the pronunciation of
the Indian name, Nahanteau. In 1622 the whole territory
known as the Massachusetts, extending ten miles northeast
from the Charles River,
including Saugus and the
Nahants, was granted to Capt.
Robert Gorges; but he failed to perfect his title to his princely
domain, and left his heirs only a series of vexatious lawsuits,
which were decided against them. The settlement of Salem was begun
in 1625 by the famous Roger Conant, who came thither
with the remnant of the Cape Ann
colony. On the 19th of March,
1628, the Council in England sold all that part of Massachusetts between three miles north of the
Charles River and three miles
south of the Merrimack to a company of six gentlemen, among whom
was M
r. John Humphrey, |

| who afterward became
an honored citizen of Lynn. Until that time the Indians had held
undisputed possession of the country. Essex County was included in
the domain of Nanapashemet, the mighty chief of
the Pawtuckets, who
sometimes made his home near the falls of the Merrimack, and occasionally on Sagamore Hill, at the
eastern end of our
city. But in a long and bloody
war with the Tarratines, those
terrible fighters of eastern
New England, Nanapashemet, the
New Moon, had gone
down in a crimson sky; and a terrible scourge,
occurring shortly after, had so reduced the numbers of
the Indians that when the
first settlers came, there were
only scattering villages here and there, presided over by local sachems,
and the old warlike spirit of the noble red men had given place to a more
peaceful disposition, and a readiness to receive whatever in the way of
benefits the hand of the white men might bring. They were entirely willing
to sell whatever land the settlers desired, and did not hesitate to sell
the same parcel as many times over as they could find a purchaser - a
practice prolific of trouble for the settlers and business for the courts.
The Indians are represented to have been tall and well-formed, and one
impressionable writer speaks of "the unparalleled beauty" of the Indian
maidens, describing them as having "very good features, seldom without a come-to-me in their countenance, all of
them black-eyed, having even, short teeth, and very white, their hair
black, thick and long, broad-breasted, handsome, straight bodies, and
slender, thin limbs, cleanly, straight, generally plump as a partridge,
and, saving now and then one, of modest deportment; " and another says:
"The Indesses that are young are some of them very comely. Many prettie
Brownettos and spider-fingered lassies
may be seen among them." No doubt the national costume of the Indians
afforded abundant facilities for accurate personal description.
Lewis,
writing in 1844, gravely informs us
that Lynn "is much smaller than it was
before the towns of Saugus, Lynnfield, Reading and South Reading were
separated from it." Since that time the towns of Swampscott and Nahant
have taken up separate existence. All the territory comprising these towns
was called by the Indians, Saugus. Salem was known as Naumkeag, Marblehead
as Massabequash, and the territory lying southwest of Saugus had the
musical appellation of Winnisimet, but it was included in the territory of
Mystic, which afterward became Boston. The marsh now lying partly in
Chelsea and partly in Saugus was called Rumney marsh. When the white men
came, Winnepoyekin - the Winnepurkit of Whittier's Bride of Pennacook -
eldest son of Nanapashemet,
"He whose name the Mohawk trembling heard,"
ruled the territory of Naumkeag,
Montowampate was sachem of Saugus, and Poquanam of Nahant - all of them
sons of Nanapashemet. The whites gave these three sagamores the less
melodious but more pronounceable names of Sagamore James, Sagamore George
No-nose and Duke William. It is evident that the "power and regal consequence" attributed to the
Saugus chieftains had failed to
impress the settlers as anything overwhelming. Most of the Indians
hereabouts lived on Sagamore Hill, near the end of Long Beach, at
Swampscott. and atNahant. Saugus signifies
great or extended, amd was used by
the Indians to designate the long
beach which stretched out in front of their
official residence. The
river which now goes by that name was called by the
Indians, Abousett. Nahant is a
shortening of the Indian term Nahanteau, signifying the twins, and for
many years the settlers adopted the Indian formula, and spoke of the two
islands as the Nahants. When, therefore,
in 1629 - probably in the leafy
month of June - Edmund anel Francis Ingalls, not liking the atmosphereof the Endicott settlement at Salem, set out to
find a place to "set themselves
downe" under thc roving permission,
given by the
bluff and sometimes peppery
Governor, to go
where it pleased them, came hitherward searching for a suitable
location where they might
carve themselves out a
home, they found a broken country,
thickly covered with the primeval forest,
save where,
here and there. the Indians
had cleared small patches, where
they planted their
pumpkins, beans and corn. Without
doubt they climbed High Rock to get the lay of the land and as their eyes drank in the beautiful prospect, perhaps they
felt in their hearts, as Thorwald is
said to have done when he landed on Nahant: "Here it
is beautiful, and here I would like to
fix my dwelling." Edmund chose
"a fayre plaine" beside a sedgy lakelet, on
what is now called Fayette street, and Francis selected a spot nearer the
beach in Swampscott, where
he built the first tannery in New England. Newhall in
his Jewels of the
Third Plantation, gives a
charming picture of the building
of the first log cabin. There
accompanied Edmund Ingalls from Salem,
when he was ready
to commence his habitation, a goodly company, who lent willing hands to the
work. The corner stone, or,
more properly, the
corner log, was laid with earnest
exhortation and lengthy prayer,
and tradition has it that one Zachariah Hart worked
harder, prayed longer and
swore louder than
any other man in the company.
Three other families came to Lynn that year -
William
Dixey, who remained here
some years, but finally removed to Salem;
William Wood, who
subsequently
left to begin with others
the settlement of Sandwich;
and John Wood, who lived on the
corner of Essex and Chestnut streets,
and from him that locality has
ever since been called Woodend. The Indians received the settlers kindly, and rendered them
assitance in many
ways, and, in return,
received many benefits from the hand of the colonists. The
following year saw nearly fifty
families added to the number of
settlers, who took up land in
various portions of the plantation, and this
year was
born Thomas Newhall, the first white
child who saw the light in Lynn. These settlers were principally farmers,
who brought with them from
England many of the necessaries and
comforts of life, and possessed a
large stock of cattle. The sheep, goats and swine were for many years pastured on
Nahant, the danger from catamounts, bears and wolves being so
great that the constant
services of a shepherd
were required for their protection. The Saugus
freemen took their
seats in the General Court in 1630,
an act which constituted all the
incorporation the town ever had. The legislators had mostly come from the
walks of private life, and were unskilled in the mysteries of statecraft.
Besides, the General Court had its calendar full of business, being called
upon to regulate many of the most trifling details of everyday life, to
say nothing of exercising a general oversight of the religious opinions of
the settlers. As a consequence, many things which were well enough were
suffered to stand, by common consent. But the progress of the settlers was
measurably rapid. Their habitations, which at the first were roughly built
of logs and thatched with straw or sedge, were improved; fanning tools
became more abundant, and preparation was made for the common defense by
the organization of a military company, which had two "great sakers," or iron cannon. The surrounding
Indians, seeing the growing power of the settlers, had begun to be uneasy
and less friendly; although the local sachems continued to regard the
settlers kindly, the sad experiences of the other colonies warned the
dwellers in Saugus to be on their guard. No outbreak ever occurred in this
vicinity, but twenty-six men from Saugus took part in the King Philip war
and participated in the swamp fight, which proved the death-blow to the
power of the mighty
Sassacus. During the first few years the religious privileges of
the settlers were limited, the nearest minister being at Salem, and to
attend service there the settlers had
to traverse a road well-nigh impassable from stumps and rocks. In 1634 the
Rev. Stephen Bachiler came to Saugus, and the First Church was organized.
The first meeting-house was situated on the corner of Shepard and Summer
streets. It was a log building "set in
a hollow for protection from the winds, and like many of the early
dwelling-houses, the floor was sunk several feet below the surface of the
ground outside, and entrance was had only by a descent of several steps.
Trouble soon arose between Mr.
Bachiler and his flock, and in 1636 he was succeeded by Rev. Samuel
Whiting, a most godly man. Under his
fostering care the church became united and prosperous, and the foundation
was laid so deep and strong that the
church continues to this day with no substantial change in form or
doctrine, the oldest orthodox Congregational Church in the world. The form
and appearance of the town has
undergone several transformations; new
sects and new doctrines have arisen,
few of which
remain; but amid all the clash and tumult of sect
and faction, and the changes in the customs and manners of the people, the old First Church has stood, a monument to that
sturdy Puritan faith which would sooner face the terrors and hardships of
a home in the wilderness than
oppression and interference in matters of conscience, and which has been transmitted from father to son for ten
generations. With 1637
ends what may he termed the
first period of our history. In the
eight years of its existence the colony has so
rapidly increased in numbers that an
assistant to the minister had been installed, farms cleared and stocked, mills built, and a ferry established over the
Saugus River: altogether the colony was
contented and prosperous.
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